Gemstones · 16 stones · Natural and lab grown

THE GEMSTONE GUIDE

A clear starting point for understanding gemstones by color, meaning, durability, care and value. Every stone below links to its own in depth guide, and to the jewelry we make with it, with every cost disclosed.

The stones

Explore By Stone

Sixteen stones we set in fine jewelry, from the hardest diamonds to the softest pearls. Read the guide for the full story, or go straight to the pieces.

Durability

How Hard Is Each Gemstone?

Hardness is measured on the Mohs scale, from 1 for talc to 10 for diamond. It tells you how well a stone resists scratches, and scratches are what dull a ring over the years. Everyday dust contains quartz, which rates 7, so anything softer than 7 will slowly lose its polish if it is worn on the hand every day.

Hardness is not the whole story. Toughness, a stone's resistance to chipping, matters too. Emerald is fairly hard but often has natural fissures, so a protective setting such as a bezel or halo is a smart choice for an emerald ring.

For an engagement ring or a ring you never take off, choose a stone rated 8 or higher. For earrings and pendants, almost any stone works.

StoneMohsScaleBest for
Diamond10Every day, any setting
Black Diamond10Every day, any setting
Sapphire9Every day, any setting
Ruby9Every day, any setting
Alexandrite8.5Every day, any setting
Topaz8Every day, any setting
Emerald7.5 to 8Every day, protective setting
Aquamarine7.5 to 8Every day, protective setting
Tourmaline7 to 7.5Every day, protective setting
Citrine7Every day, protective setting
Amethyst7Every day, protective setting
Garnet6.5 to 7.5Occasional wear in rings
Peridot6.5 to 7Occasional wear in rings
Tanzanite6 to 7Occasional wear in rings
Opal5.5 to 6.5Occasional wear in rings
Pearl2.5 to 4.5Earrings and necklaces

Color

Gemstones By Color

Start with the color you love. Many stones come in more than one color, so they appear in more than one family. In every stone, the most saturated, evenly spread color is the most valuable.

Meaning

What Each Gemstone Means

Gemstones have carried meaning for thousands of years, and many people choose a stone for what it stands for as much as how it looks. These are the traditional associations.

  • DiamondStrength and lasting love
  • EmeraldRenewal, growth and loyalty
  • SapphireWisdom, truth and faithfulness
  • RubyPassion, courage and vitality
  • AquamarineCalm, clarity and courage
  • TanzaniteTransformation and new beginnings
  • OpalCreativity and inspiration
  • GarnetCommitment and protection
  • AmethystCalm and balance
  • PeridotHarmony and good fortune
  • CitrineWarmth, joy and abundance
  • PearlPurity and grace

Care

How To Care For Gemstones

Read the full jewelry care guide →

Clean gently

Warm water, a drop of mild soap and a soft toothbrush are safe for every stone. Rinse well and pat dry with a lint free cloth.

Know the sensitive ones

Keep emerald, opal, tanzanite and pearl away from ultrasonic and steam cleaners, heat and harsh chemicals. Put pearls on last, after perfume and lotion.

Store apart

Harder stones scratch softer ones. Keep each piece in its own pouch or compartment, and take rings off for the gym, gardening and cleaning.

Value

What Makes A Gemstone Valuable?

Color

Color matters most for colored stones. Rich, even, saturated color is worth far more than pale or patchy color.

Clarity

Fewer visible inclusions raise value, though some stones, emerald above all, are expected to have them.

Cut and carat

A good cut brings out color and brilliance. Price per carat climbs quickly as stones get larger, because large, fine stones are rarer.

Natural or lab grown

Natural stones are rarer and cost more. Lab grown stones offer the same beauty and hardness at a fraction of the price.

Every cost, disclosed

Most jewelers hide what the stone costs. We publish it.

MaterialPrecious metal, priced to market
StonesWhat the stones cost us
CraftArtisan labor and setting
LogisticsInsured, signed for delivery
Protocol feeWhat we make, published
Read the Transparency Manifest →

Natural and lab grown

Lab Grown Gemstones

A lab grown gemstone is chemically and physically the same as the natural stone, grown in controlled conditions instead of mined. We never mix the two: every piece is clearly listed as natural or lab grown.

Questions

Gemstone FAQs

Which gemstones are best for an everyday ring?

Look for a hardness of 8 or higher on the Mohs scale. Diamond, black diamond, sapphire and ruby are the safest choices for rings worn daily, with alexandrite and topaz close behind. Softer stones such as opal, tanzanite and pearl are lovely in earrings and pendants, where they take fewer knocks.

What is the hardest gemstone after diamond?

Corundum, the mineral that makes both sapphire and ruby, rates 9 on the Mohs scale, just below diamond at 10. That is why sapphire is such a popular alternative to a diamond center stone.

Are lab grown gemstones real gemstones?

Yes. A lab grown emerald, sapphire or diamond has the same chemistry, crystal structure and hardness as the natural stone. The difference is origin: one formed in the earth, the other was grown in controlled conditions. At TrueSanity, lab grown and natural stones are always listed separately, so you know exactly what you are buying.

Which gemstones should not go in an ultrasonic cleaner?

Keep emerald, opal, tanzanite and pearl out of ultrasonic and steam cleaners. Emeralds often have natural fissures, opals and pearls are sensitive to heat and vibration, and tanzanite can crack under sudden temperature change. Warm water, mild soap and a soft brush are safe for every stone.

How is a gemstone priced at TrueSanity?

Every piece comes with a Transparency Manifest that breaks the price into material, stones, craft, logistics and our protocol fee, which is what we make. The stone's color, clarity, cut, size and whether it is natural or lab grown drive what it costs us, and we show you that number.

What is the difference between a treatment and an enhancement?

There is no difference. Both words describe any process used to improve a gemstone or diamond's appearance or durability.

Every stone deserves clarity.

Clarity is a Form of Luxury.

  • 45 day returnsFree both ways in the US.
  • Lifetime promiseCraftsmanship covered for life.
  • Insured shippingSignature on every delivery.
  • Transparency ManifestEvery cost, with every order.
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