Lab-Grown Emeralds: Real Emerald, No Oil Needed
A lab-grown emerald is real emerald: green beryl colored by chromium, with the same chemistry, crystal structure and 7.5 to 8 Mohs hardness as a mined emerald. It is grown in months rather than millions of years, usually has fewer inclusions, needs no oil treatment, and costs far less.
What a lab-grown emerald is, how hydrothermal growth works, lab vs natural, how to tell them apart, value and care.
By Amit Jhalani, third-generation jeweler · Updated October 2026
| Mineral | Beryl (Be₃Al₂Si₆O₁₈) |
|---|---|
| Color from | Chromium (and vanadium) |
| Hardness | 7.5–8 Mohs |
| Our growth method | Hydrothermal |
| Oil treatment | Not needed |
| Birthstone | May |
| Also called | Lab-created, synthetic emerald |
What Is a Lab-Grown Emerald?
Emerald is the green variety of the mineral beryl, colored by chromium and sometimes vanadium. A lab-grown emerald is that same beryl, grown in a controlled environment. It has the same chemistry, crystal structure, hardness (7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale) and optical properties, including a refractive index of about 1.56 to 1.59.
Are lab-grown emeralds real emeralds? Yes. They are not glass, green cubic zirconia or dyed quartz, which only imitate emerald. They must always be disclosed as lab-grown.
How Lab-Grown Emeralds Are Made
Ours are hydrothermal emeralds, grown the way nature grows them: in hot water under pressure. Beryl ingredients and chromium dissolve in water inside a sealed steel vessel at around 600°C, and crystallize slowly onto seed plates over weeks to months. The result shows its own growth patterns, often fine chevron-shaped lines.
The other main method, flux growth, dissolves the ingredients in a molten flux and can take months. Both produce real emerald.
The Oil Question
Most natural emeralds are filled with oil or resin to hide surface-reaching fractures, a long-accepted practice that must be disclosed. Lab-grown emeralds usually grow with far fewer fractures, so they don’t need it. We disclose every natural emerald as oiled unless a certificate states it is untreated; our lab-grown emeralds are not oiled.
Lab-Grown vs Natural Emerald
Same green beryl, different origin and price.
| Lab-grown emerald | Natural emerald | |
|---|---|---|
| Mineral | Beryl | Beryl |
| Hardness | 7.5–8 Mohs | 7.5–8 Mohs |
| Clarity | Fewer inclusions | Inclusions are normal (“jardin”) |
| Treatment | Usually none | Most are oiled or resin-filled |
| Growth time | Weeks to months | Millions of years |
| Origin | A lab | Colombia, Zambia, Brazil and others |
| Price | A fraction of natural | Rises steeply with color and clarity |
| Resale | Little | Can hold value in fine qualities |
Comparing in depth? Read natural vs lab-created emerald: which should you buy?
How to Tell a Lab-Grown Emerald From a Natural One
Usually not by eye: a gemologist uses magnification and testing. Hydrothermal emeralds can show chevron or wavy growth patterns and nail-head-shaped inclusions; flux emeralds can show wispy flux “fingerprints”; natural emeralds show mineral crystals and three-phase inclusions, especially Colombian stones. An unusually clean, saturated, inexpensive emerald is a clue, not proof. A lab report confirms origin. See also how to identify a genuine emerald.
What Makes a Good Lab-Grown Emerald
Color comes first: a pure green to slightly bluish green, medium to medium-dark, with strong saturation. Then clarity (eye-clean is common in lab stones), then cut, where the classic emerald cut shows off color and protects the corners. Avoid stones that look too dark or grayish.
Are Lab-Grown Emeralds Worth It?
For color, clarity and everyday durability, yes; as an investment, no. A lab-grown emerald gives you fine color and clarity for a fraction of the price of a comparable natural stone, but it has little resale value. Most of a finished piece’s price is the metal, diamonds and craftsmanship, shown in the live Manifest below.
Four Ways to Wear Lab-Grown Emerald
Hydrothermal emerald, every cost on the Transparency Manifest.
How to Care for Lab-Grown Emerald
Emerald is hard but can chip, so protect it from knocks. Clean with lukewarm, soapy water and a soft brush. Lab-grown emeralds are not oiled, but ultrasonic and steam cleaning are still best avoided. Protective settings such as bezels and halos are smart for rings worn every day.
Nocturnal Luxury, Radical Transparency
What a lab-grown emerald piece really costs
A lab emerald and a natural one can look alike across a room, and be priced worlds apart. This is the live Transparency Manifest of a real lab-grown emerald piece: metal, stones, craft, logistics, and what we make.
How the Transparency Manifest works →Lab Grown Emerald & Diamond Fashion Solitaire Ring - Tasmia
Lab-Grown Emerald FAQs
Are lab-grown emeralds real emeralds?
Yes. Lab-grown emeralds are beryl colored by chromium, with the same chemistry, structure and hardness as natural emerald. Only the origin differs.
How are lab-grown emeralds made?
Ours are hydrothermal emeralds: emerald ingredients dissolve in hot water under pressure in a sealed vessel and crystallize onto seed plates over weeks to months. Flux growth is the other main method.
Are lab-grown emeralds worth it?
For color, clarity and durability at a fraction of the price, yes. They have little resale value, so they are not an investment.
Are lab-grown emeralds oiled?
Usually not. Most natural emeralds are oiled to hide fractures, but lab-grown emeralds grow with fewer fractures and don't need it. Ours are not oiled.
How can you tell a lab-grown emerald from a natural one?
A gemologist looks for growth patterns, such as chevron lines in hydrothermal emeralds, and for the mineral inclusions typical of natural stones. A lab report confirms origin.
How hard is a lab-grown emerald?
Lab-grown emerald rates 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, the same as natural emerald, but it can chip if struck, so protective settings are wise.
Is lab-grown emerald a May birthstone?
Yes. Emerald is the May birthstone, whether natural or lab-grown.
What is the difference between lab-grown and synthetic emerald?
None. Lab-grown, lab-created and synthetic emerald all mean real emerald grown in a lab. Simulated emerald, such as green glass, is different.
How do you clean a lab-grown emerald?
Use lukewarm, soapy water and a soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic and steam cleaners, and avoid hard knocks.
What does TrueSanity disclose about lab-grown emeralds?
Every lab-grown emerald is labeled lab-grown on the product page and in the Transparency Manifest, along with every cost in the piece.
Keep Learning
More from the TrueSanity guides.
Find Your Lab-Grown Emerald
More lab-grown gems
Sources: GIA, Emerald · GIA, Emerald quality factors.
Clarity is a Form of Luxury.