Gemstone Guide
Black Diamonds
Every other diamond reflects light. Black diamonds absorb it. They may have formed inside an exploding star. One-third of those examined by the GIA are secretly treated. And the man who made them fashionable bought his first lot for almost nothing. This is the full story, told by a house that hides nothing.
What Are Black Diamonds?
Black diamonds are real diamonds that owe their color to an exceptionally high concentration of mineral inclusions, primarily graphite, pyrite, and hematite, distributed throughout the crystal. These inclusions are so dense that the diamond becomes completely opaque. While a colorless diamond is valued for its transparency and light performance, a black diamond's beauty comes from the opposite: a deep, total absorption of light that produces a polished, almost metallic surface.
They are graded as Fancy Black by the GIA. Unlike other fancy colored diamonds, which come in up to nine intensity grades (Faint through Deep), black diamonds have exactly one: Fancy Black. That's it. There are no "light black" or "intense black" distinctions. The diamond is either fully black or it isn't.
It is important to distinguish between two things that share a name. Black diamonds are single-crystal diamonds colored by inclusions. Carbonados are polycrystalline aggregates of diamond, graphite, and amorphous carbon. They look similar but have different structures, different origins, and different properties. Carbonados are tougher than single-crystal diamonds. Both are called "black diamonds" in popular usage, but they are not the same thing.
Why Black Diamonds Don't Sparkle
This is the fundamental thing to understand before buying one. A colorless diamond's value comes from brilliance (white light returned to your eye), fire (colored light split by the diamond's prism effect), and scintillation (the sparkle pattern as you move the stone). Black diamonds do none of these things. They absorb virtually all light that enters them.
Their beauty is entirely about surface. A well-cut, well-polished black diamond has a luster that is sometimes described as adamantine (diamond-like) and sometimes as submetallic. Think polished obsidian or hematite, but harder than anything else on Earth. The appeal is sculptural. It's the shape, the polish, the contrast against a setting or skin, the way it catches a single edge of light and throws everything else into darkness. If you're shopping for sparkle, buy a white diamond. If you're shopping for presence, a black diamond is something else entirely.
Born in a Supernova: The Extraterrestrial Theory
The origin of carbonado diamonds is one of the genuine unsolved mysteries in geology. They break all the rules. Normal diamonds form 90 to 500 miles beneath the Earth's surface in the mantle, under enormous heat and pressure, and are brought to the surface by volcanic eruptions through kimberlite pipes. Carbonados are found in none of these contexts. They are never found in kimberlite. They are never found with the mantle minerals that accompany normal diamonds. They exist in only two places on Earth: Brazil and the Central African Republic.
"The likelihood of finding carbonado anywhere else on Earth is essentially zero. They appear to follow none of the rules of diamond mineralogy."
— Geological consensus on carbonado originIn 2006, geophysicist Stephen Haggerty of Florida International University proposed the most compelling theory: carbonados formed inside an exploding star. A supernova that occurred at least 3.8 billion years ago produced carbon-rich material that crystallized into diamond under the extreme conditions of the explosion. This mass of diamond dust coalesced, drifted through interstellar space for roughly 1.5 billion years, and eventually fell to Earth as a meteorite approximately 2.3 billion years ago.
At that time, South America and Africa were still joined as part of the supercontinent Pangaea. The meteorite impacted a single region. When the continent eventually split apart through tectonic drift, the carbonado deposits went with it, ending up on opposite sides of the Atlantic Ocean. This would explain why they're found in exactly two locations, why those locations were once adjacent, and why they contain trace amounts of osbornite (titanium nitride), a mineral that only forms in space. The theory remains unproven. But no competing hypothesis explains the evidence as cleanly.
The Man Who Made Them Famous
Before the mid-1990s, black diamonds were industrial stones. They were used for cutting, drilling, and polishing. The gem trade had no interest in them. Consumer demand was zero.
That changed because of one man: Fawaz Gruosi, the founder of Swiss jewelry house de Grisogono. In the early 1990s, Gruosi purchased a large lot of black diamonds for what he later described as "almost nothing." He had no plan for them. He locked the stones in a safe and forgot about them.
One day, he set some of the black diamonds on his desk alongside a white pearl. The contrast was electric. The black crystals, which had looked dull and lifeless in isolation, suddenly appeared to glow against the pearl's white surface. "Like magic," Gruosi recalled, "the contrast made the diamonds come to life."
His first piece was a ring set with 120 black diamonds and a single white pearl. It sold. Then the collection sold. Then the entire world noticed. By 1996, de Grisogono had launched a full black diamond line, and celebrities from Beyoncé to Lady Gaga were wearing Lorraine Schwartz black diamond chandelier earrings on red carpets. The industrial reject became the boldest stone in high jewelry. One man with a pearl and a desk started it all.
Famous Black Diamonds
The Black Orlov (67.50 Carats)
Also known as the Eye of Brahma. According to legend, the Black Orlov was originally a 195-carat uncut stone pried from the eye of a statue of the Hindu god Brahma in a temple in southern India. Three successive owners, including a Russian princess named Nadia Vyegin-Orlov, died by suicide. The "curse" was said to have been broken when dealer Charles Winson had the stone recut into three pieces. The 67.50-carat cushion-cut gem is now set in a brooch surrounded by 108 white diamonds, suspended from a necklace of 124 additional diamonds. It was last sold in 2006 for $352,000.
The Enigma (555.55 Carats)
A carbonado diamond cut to exactly 555.55 carats with 55 facets. Believed to be of extraterrestrial origin. Sold at Sotheby's in February 2022 for $4.29 million. The buyer paid in cryptocurrency. The Enigma is the largest faceted carbonado diamond ever sold at auction.
The Spirit of de Grisogono (312.24 Carats)
The largest cut black diamond in the world. Mined in the Central African Republic, cut from a 587-carat rough stone in the old Moghul style by de Grisogono. Mounted in a white gold ring.
The Sergio (3,167 Carats)
Found in Bahia, Brazil. The Sergio is the largest diamond ever discovered, period. Not the largest black diamond. The largest diamond of any kind, single-crystal or polycrystalline. It is a carbonado and has never been cut or set. It sits in the record books almost entirely unknown to the public.
Natural vs. Treated: The 10x Truth
This is the section that matters most if you're buying. According to the GIA, roughly one-third of the black diamonds they examine are treated, not naturally black. Treatment typically involves taking a low-quality, heavily fractured white or gray diamond and subjecting it to high temperature at low pressure. The graphite along the fractures turns black, darkening the entire stone. Diamonds can also be irradiated to produce a green so dark it appears black.
The price difference is enormous. Treated black diamonds sell for $150 to $495 per carat. Natural Fancy Black diamonds certified by GIA sell for $1,500 to $5,000 per carat. That's a 10x to 30x gap for stones that look identical to the naked eye. Without documentation, there is no reliable way for a consumer to tell the difference.
The good news: most treated black diamonds over 1 carat come with a GIA Colored Diamond Identification and Origin Report. This is not a full grading report. It's a small quality assurance document that confirms two things: whether the stone is a natural diamond (not a simulant or synthetic) and whether the color is natural or treated. That's it. No clarity grade, no cut grade, no fluorescence. For a black diamond, that's all you need. If a treated black diamond over 1 carat doesn't come with this report, ask why.
At TrueSanity, the Transparency Manifest for every black diamond piece states whether the stone is natural or treated. We sell both. We price them differently. And we tell you which one you're getting before you spend a dollar. Below, we show you both side by side.
Black Diamond Buying Guide
What Matters
Treatment status. Natural or treated? This is the single biggest factor in value. Always ask. Always verify. For treated black diamonds over 1 carat, most reputable sellers include a GIA Colored Diamond Identification and Origin Report: a small document confirming the stone is a real diamond and disclosing whether the color is natural or treated. It doesn't grade cut or clarity. For a black diamond, it doesn't need to. It answers the only two questions that matter: is it real, and is it treated.
Cut quality. Since black diamonds don't sparkle, the cut is about shape, symmetry, and surface polish. A well-polished black diamond should have an even, lustrous surface with no visible pits or rough spots. Symmetry matters more here than in white diamonds because there's no sparkle to distract from imperfections.
Color saturation. The best black diamonds are uniformly, intensely black with no visible gray or brown patches. Hold the stone up to a strong light source. If you see transparency or uneven color, the stone is lower quality.
What Doesn't Matter
Clarity grading. Black diamonds are opaque by definition. The traditional clarity scale (IF through I3) does not apply. GIA does not assign a clarity grade to Fancy Black diamonds.
Fluorescence. Irrelevant in an opaque stone.
Brand markup. A 1-carat treated black diamond costs a jeweler roughly $150 to $495. If someone is selling you that stone for $2,000 in a simple setting without disclosing treatment, the markup is the product, not the diamond. Our Manifest shows you the actual numbers.
Know What You're Buying
Three Types of Black Diamond
Same name. Different origins. Very different prices.
Natural Fancy Black
$1,500 – $5,000 / Carat · GIA Certified
Single-crystal diamond with dense graphite/hematite inclusions creating natural black color. Never enhanced. The real thing. GIA grades these as "Fancy Black" and issues a Colored Diamond Report confirming natural origin.
Treated / Enhanced
$150 – $495 / Carat · Disclosed on Manifest
Low-quality white or gray diamond heated or irradiated until it turns black. Looks identical to natural. Costs 10x to 30x less. Over 1 carat, most come with a GIA report confirming it's a real diamond and disclosing the treatment. A legitimate option when sold honestly.
Carbonado
Polycrystalline · Possibly Extraterrestrial
Not a single crystal. A porous aggregate of diamond, graphite, and amorphous carbon. Tougher than regular diamond. Found only in Brazil and Central African Republic, never in kimberlite. May have formed in a supernova. The Enigma (555.55ct) and Sergio (3,167ct) are both carbonados.
Black Diamond Jewelry
Darkness, Worn
Each piece ships with a Transparency Manifest. Natural or treated: you know before you buy.
Side by Side
The Price of Honesty
Same look. Same setting. Very different stones. We sell both. We label both.
Same setting. Same craftsmanship. Same shipping. The diamond is the variable. Both are real diamonds confirmed by GIA. One started black. One was made black. You deserve to know which.
Absorbs, Not Reflects
Black diamonds don't sparkle. Their beauty is sculptural: surface polish, shape, contrast against skin and metal. If you want fire, buy white. If you want presence, buy black.
Diamond-Hard, Still Careful
10 on Mohs. Nothing scratches a diamond except another diamond. But black diamonds have more internal fractures than white diamonds, making them slightly more vulnerable to impact. The small surface pits you sometimes see are natural inclusions. They will not grow, spread, or worsen over time. They are stable. Avoid sharp blows. Clean with warm soapy water.
Setting & Rhodium Note
Every TrueSanity black diamond piece discloses natural or treated status on the Manifest. One practical note: if your black diamond is set in white gold, the rhodium plating on the prongs or bezel can sometimes leave a faint white residue on the stone's surface. This is cosmetic and easily wiped off with a soft cloth. It's the rhodium, not the diamond. Ask your jeweler if you notice it.
Black diamonds are part of the diamond family. See our April birthstone page for the full diamond guide.
Read our April Birthstone Diamond guide →Questions
Black Diamond FAQs
Yes. Black diamonds are genuine diamonds with the same chemical composition (carbon) and hardness (10 Mohs) as colorless diamonds. Their black color comes from dense inclusions of graphite, hematite, and pyrite that absorb light instead of reflecting it.
Because they're opaque. Light enters but doesn't return. Their beauty comes from surface polish and luster, not brilliance or fire. Think polished obsidian, but harder than anything else on Earth.
Carbonado diamonds may be. The leading theory proposes they formed in a supernova 3.8 billion years ago and fell to Earth as a meteorite. They contain trace amounts of osbornite, a mineral that only forms in space. The theory is compelling but unproven.
Natural black diamonds get their color from inclusions during formation. Treated black diamonds start as low-quality white or gray stones and are heated or irradiated until they turn black. They look identical but cost 10x to 30x less. About one-third of black diamonds examined by GIA are treated.
Treated: $150 to $495 per carat. Natural Fancy Black (GIA certified): $1,500 to $5,000 per carat. Most treated stones over 1 carat come with a GIA report confirming the diamond is real and the treatment is disclosed.
A polycrystalline aggregate of diamond, graphite, and amorphous carbon. Tougher than single-crystal diamond. Found only in Brazil and the Central African Republic. The 555.55-carat Enigma and 3,167-carat Sergio are both carbonados.
Yes. They're 10 on Mohs. Durable enough for daily wear. The only caution: black diamonds have more internal fractures than white diamonds, so avoid sharp impacts. A bezel or halo setting adds protection. The look is bold, unconventional, and increasingly popular.
No. The small surface pits visible on some black diamonds are natural inclusions that were present when the stone was cut and polished. They are completely stable. They will not grow, spread, or deepen with wear. What you see when you buy the stone is what it will look like in twenty years.
If your black diamond is set in white gold, the culprit is likely rhodium. White gold is rhodium-plated for its bright finish, and during plating or through contact over time, a thin layer of rhodium can deposit on the diamond's surface. This is cosmetic, not damage. Wipe gently with a soft cloth or ask your jeweler to clean it.
Every black diamond piece includes a Manifest showing whether the stone is natural or treated, its carat weight, setting cost, craftsmanship, and our protocol fee. Treated stones over 1 carat include a GIA report confirming the diamond is real and disclosing treatment status. We sell both types. We hide neither.



